The Storied Japanese Skincare Practice You Should Know About

Fermented skincare’s most common ingredients, explored 

Beyond sake, probiotics, and yeast, which are what we usually associate easily with the fermented skincare category (or with Asian skincare, in general), there are other ingredients more familiar to casual consumers.

Soy milk, for one, which is often found in face and body care products, is rich in linoleic acid, fatty acids, and antioxidants that help improve skin elasticity and firmness, and target pigmentation. It is fermented using lactobacilli, better known as ‘good lactic bacteria’.

Kombucha, a yeast-fermented tea drink that is said to have originated from China and Japan, also boasts antioxidant properties that are great for anti-ageing, hydration, and skin regeneration. Aside from being a known gut-health beverage, it is also becoming a rising beauty ingredient.

Kombucha, today's rising star in gut-health wellness, is also becoming popular in the beauty department 

If we’re getting a bit technical, more familiar skincare terms such as lactic acid, glycolic acid and galactomyces, commonly found in skin toners and acid-based serums, are also derived from fermentation. But how good are they for your skin?

Dr. Francesca Sy-Alvarado, a board-certified dermatologist and laser surgeon from the Philippine Dermatological Society, explains the benefits of these types of ingredients. She says that during the fermentation process, compounds are broken down to smaller particles, making them easy to be absorbed by the skin and allows for gentler exfoliation, thus, making them great for skincare. However, excessive use may lead to irritation due to their high acid content. 

Sy, however, emphasises that fermented skincare is "not strictly regulated as most [compontents] are not approved for pharmacological treatment of skin conditions. There are also not enough studies yet to ascertain its efficacy. The best way to go about trying these products is still consulting a dermatologist first and take proper caution.

Adding fermented skincare products to cart 

“I do not advise against fermented skincare,” says Sy. “But I do recommend trying one product at a time. It would be hard to tell which product you developed any sensitivity to if you use them all at the same time,” she adds. 

Clozetter Jeanne Lucero, who constantly tries fermented skincare products such as brightening soaps, serums, and toners, seconds this statement. She says that with proper usage, based on personal experience, such products can work wonders even to those with acne-prone skin like herself. 

“Generally, I find that skincare products that use fermented ingredients are filled with more natural components that are friendlier to my skin,” says Jeanne. “Ever since I started using them, my skin’s been acne-free and soft. No negative reactions so far either!”

How many fermented skincare products have you tried that you weren't aware of?

But how easy is it exactly to get on board this trend? A quick trip to the J-beauty aisle is your answer.

There’s Yakult Beautiens (yes, from that Yakult). It's known for cultivating the benefits of probiotics for health since 1935 — now they use it for beauty, too. Kokutousei also offers an entire skincare range with fermented products at its core.

If the first two are a bit harder for you to get ahold of, global brand Tatcha has many skincare products with lactic acids, fermented superfoods, and Japanese ingredients like green tea and sake.

And of course, we can’t talk about fermented skincare without mentioning SK-II and the cult-favourite Facial Treatment Essence. Its miracle ingredient, Pitera, is “derived from a strictly controlled natural fermentation process” making it rich in vitamins, amino acids and other potent ingredients that are great for skin regeneration. 

These are just some of the brands that have been championing fermented skincare right under our noses. Now, you know. The question is: with your newfound consciousness on this, will you soon add to cart?