Summer can get quite warm in Japan, but Kyoto has a unique way of letting people enjoy their time outdoors while keeping cool. As soon as the summer season starts, restaurants along the Kamogawa, Kibune, and Kiyotaki rivers in Kyoto open their outdoor patios for diners to enjoy a riverside dining experience next to the cooling river breeze.
Experience the quintessential Kyoto summer tradition of Kawadoko in the scenic town of Kibune. (Photo from: Kyoto Convention and Visitors Bureau)
These riverside dining terraces are known either as “Kawadoko” or “Noryo Yuka”, depending on the area they are located at. They are more commonly referred to as “kawadoko”, but those on the Kamo River are called “noryo yuka.”
Between May and September, eager visitors from all over Japan come to Kyoto to indulge in this centuries-old summer tradition.
Origins of Kawadoko and Noryo Yuka
The riverside dining tradition in Kyoto started in the Edo period (1603-1868), with Kamogawa’s iconic riverside terraces dating back to the 1600s.
Back then, wealthy merchants set up tables along the riverbanks of Kamo River, creating outdoor dining spaces to entertain guests in the refreshing evening air. During the mid-Edo period, tables were placed directly in the shallow water, giving rise to the concept of “noryo yuka.”
The row of restaurants along Kamo River is popular for their riverside terraces during summer. (Photo from: PhotoAC)
Over at Kibune, kawadoko is believed to have originated from a little teahouse during the Taisho era. The owner had the brilliant idea of putting a bench in the river for guests to soak their feet while enjoying dinner. It became popular in no time, and the rest is history.
Every restaurant has its unique take on kawadoko dining, from traditional Kyoto cuisine to luxurious multi-course kaiseki set menus. If you are looking for something less fancy, some dining spots offer simple lunches and drinks.
People relaxing on a tatami bed beside the river. (Photo from: Pexels)
Read on to find out some recommended locations for a memorable kawadoko dining experience in Kyoto!
Kibune, Kyoto City
Nestled in the northern mountains of Kyoto city, Kibune is a small town home to tranquil cedar forests and the renowned Kifune Shrine. It is a popular year-round destination retreat, but the summer months are when this quiet town is abuzz with activity.
Restaurants and local ryokans along the Kibune River open up their riverside terraces for visitors who want to experience kawadoko dining.
A typical kawadoko meal consists of grilled sweetfish, among other seasonal summer dishes. (Photo from: PhotoAC)
Make a reservation at the hugely popular Hirobun for one of the most spectacular riverside terraces in Kyoto. Here, you can savour delicious nagashi somen (chilled flowing noodles), a summer delicacy, and authentic kaiseki cuisine. Surrounded by verdant greenery and flowing water, it is an unforgettable kawadoko experience.
For a truly nostalgic experience, head over to the historically rich Kibune Fujiya located in front of Kifune Shrine. They specialise in mouthwatering dishes featuring fresh river fish and served on the most charming river decks. Built directly over the gushing stream, diners can enjoy the delightfully cool temperatures and soothing atmosphere.
Takao, Kyoto City
Another hidden gem worth exploring is situated in the idyllic mountain town of Takao. The clear streams of the Kiyotaki River and its surrounding scenery paint an incredibly picturesque setting for kawadoko dining. Tucked away in lush mountains, this area stays refreshingly cool even during the hot summer days.
A good place to immerse in the natural surroundings is the Kinsuitei ryokan. This quaint Japanese-style guesthouse is a delightful escape from the bustle of the city and offers a variety of kawadoko dining options for day-trippers. Specialising in grilled sweetfish, you can indulge in delectable bento sets or lavish Kyoto-style kaiseki meals.
Kamo River, Kyoto City
If travelling out to the countryside of Kyoto is not on your agenda, you can experience riverside dining in the city as well.
Stretching along the scenic Kamo River, more than 80 restaurants offer outdoor balcony seats with a view. From traditional kaiseki courses to international cuisines, this is a convenient location for travellers looking to experience kawadoko culture in the heart of Kyoto.
The prestigious Chimoto kaiseki restaurant with its elegant tatami deck is sure to get your spirits up. With over 300 years of legacy, this long-established restaurant boasts an impressive clientele of artists and writers and serves an exquisite menu of fine Kyoto cuisine. A more casual option along the river would be the Atlantis bar. They have a good selection of cocktails and tasty bar snacks, which you can enjoy on their riverside terrace.
Dining by the riverside is a must-try activity if you are visiting Kyoto during the summer months. Having a meal while accompanied by the coolness of a water stream is a great way to beat the heat and experience a slice of authentic Kyoto culture.